Most people organising a static caravan move focus on the lorry, the route and the cost – and understandably so. But once the unit is on its new pitch, the single most important task is getting it perfectly level. An unlevel static caravan is not just uncomfortable; over time it damages doors, windows, drainage and the chassis itself. This guide explains exactly how levelling works, why it matters so much more for a static than for a touring van, and what happens during professional siting – whether you’re siting a unit for the first time or resiting after a move.
Why Levelling a Static Caravan Is Not Optional
A touring caravan spends a night unlevel and you move on. A static sits on the same supports for years – sometimes decades. The consequences of poor levelling compound over time and can be expensive to put right.
The main problems that develop when a static caravan is not properly level include:
- Doors and windows that bind or won’t close. The body frame racks as the chassis deflects unevenly, distorting apertures. This is often the first sign owners notice.
- Poor water drainage. Sink, shower and waste outlets rely on gravity. Even a degree or two of tilt can cause water to pool in pipes, traps and the shower tray rather than draining freely.
- Fridge problems. Absorption-style fridges – common in holiday homes – depend on a level surface to circulate refrigerant correctly. An unlevel fridge runs inefficiently and can fail early.
- Structural stress. The steel chassis is engineered to carry the load evenly across its support points. Uneven loading causes localised stress, leading to floor flex, seal failure around windows and roof joints, and – in severe cases – long-term chassis fatigue.
- Discomfort and instability. Beds feel tilted, furniture creaks and the unit can rock in wind if corner steadies are doing more structural work than they should.
Static Caravans vs Touring Caravans: A Different Job
It’s worth being clear on the distinction. Articles about levelling a caravan often cover tourers, which you adjust with a jockey wheel and ramps over ten minutes. A static is a different proposition entirely. A typical single-unit static is 10–12 ft wide and 28–40 ft long, weighing several tonnes. It arrives on a specialist low loader – it cannot be towed – and must be jacked, positioned and supported on permanent stands or concrete blocks before it can be used. For a full explanation of why specialist transport is essential, see Can You Tow a Static Caravan? Why Statics Need Specialist Transport.
Levelling a static is therefore part of the professional siting process, not a DIY ten-minute task. Understanding each stage helps you ask the right questions when you commission the work.
The Professional Levelling Process: Step by Step
Professional siting teams – including the Static Caravan Movers team – follow a structured sequence to get a unit perfectly level and safely supported. Here is what each stage involves.
1. Ground preparation
Before the lorry arrives, the pitch must be able to take the load. Ideally there are concrete strip foundations or a compacted hardcore sub-base at the support positions. Soft or uneven ground will shift over time, causing the unit to move out of level even after a perfect initial setup. If the ground is poor, your site operator or a groundworks contractor needs to address this before siting day.
2. Positioning on the pitch
The unit is rolled or steered off the low loader and manoeuvred into its final position on the pitch. Access is a frequent concern – narrow site roads, low-hanging trees and tight turns all affect how close the lorry can get and how the unit is moved the last few metres. It is worth discussing access in detail when booking your siting; a site visit or detailed photographs help the team plan ahead. See Static Caravan Delivery Guide: What to Expect for more on access planning.
3. Jacking and initial support
Using a hydraulic jack under the main axle – one side at a time – the siting team raises the unit just enough to allow concrete blocks or timber packers to be placed beneath the chassis. Jacking points must align with the vertical chassis members (cross-braced positions either side of the axle), not just anywhere along the beam. Incorrect jacking points risk bending the chassis.
4. Checking level in two planes
A spirit level is placed on a flat surface directly over the axle area – the most reliable reference point on the chassis. Level must be confirmed in two directions:
- Lateral (side to side): adjusted by packing one side of the axle higher than the other.
- Longitudinal (front to back): adjusted at the corner positions using packers of different thicknesses.
The team repeats the jack – check – adjust cycle until both planes read level. Small hardwood packers between the top of the concrete block and the chassis beam cushion the load and reduce vibration transmission.
5. Axle stands and permanent support
Once level is confirmed, heavy-duty axle stands are positioned at the specified support points – typically four positions along each main chassis rail. These carry the permanent load of the unit. Corner steadies are lowered to reduce movement but are not structural supports; relying on corner steadies alone instead of proper axle stands is a common mistake that leads to the frame damage described above.
6. Twin-unit rejoining and sealing
For twin-unit park homes, the two halves are moved separately – each half transported individually and levelled in sequence – before being bolted together along the central join and resealed to make the roof and walls watertight. Getting both halves to the same level before rejoining is critical; a mismatch of even a few millimetres creates stress on the join seals and risks water ingress. See Moving a Twin-Unit Static Caravan: How It Works for the full detail on that process.
What You Need to Arrange Yourself
Siting and levelling is a mechanical and structural task. Certified utility work is separate and must be arranged by you independently of the transport and siting team.
- Gas disconnection and reconnection must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Static Caravan Movers does not carry out certified gas work and is not liable for it. Note: some parks insist that only their own approved contractor may disconnect or reconnect gas on their site – check this with your park operator before booking.
- Electrical disconnection and reconnection must be signed off by a qualified electrician (typically Part P or equivalent). Again, some parks reserve this right for their own contractor.
- Water disconnection and reconnection should also be handled by a competent person, especially if the mains supply runs under the unit.
- Skirting and decking removal is usually the owner’s responsibility ahead of de-siting. We can price this work if needed, but it adds time and cost to the job and is easier and cheaper for most owners to arrange locally in advance.
If you’re planning a full move rather than just a resiting, the How to Prepare a Static Caravan for Transport (Checklist) guide covers everything that needs doing before the lorry arrives.
Levelling Costs: What to Expect
De-siting and re-siting (which includes levelling as part of the process) is priced separately from transport. Typical ranges for Static Caravan Movers’ siting work are shown below. These figures are a guide; the final price depends on unit size, ground conditions, access and any specialist requirements such as twin-unit rejoining.
| Unit type | Typical de-site & re-site cost |
|---|---|
| Standard single-unit static caravan | £300 – £1,200 |
| Larger, heavier or specialist single units | £1,200 – £4,000 |
| Twin-unit park home or mobile home | £4,000 – £5,000 |
Transport is priced separately and starts from £950 for most jobs. For a full cost breakdown covering both transport and siting, see How Much Does It Cost to Move a Static Caravan? UK Price Guide 2026.
Checking and Maintaining Level Over Time
Even a well-sited caravan can shift gradually. Ground movement, frost heave in cold winters, and gradual settlement of a hardcore sub-base can all allow supports to sink or tilt over months and years. Signs that your unit may have moved out of level include doors beginning to stick, new draughts around window seals, or water not draining as freely as it did.
A useful habit is to keep a long spirit level indoors and check it once or twice a year – place it on a kitchen worktop or floor panel directly above the axle area for the most reliable reading. If you notice significant movement, contact a siting professional rather than attempting to re-jack the unit yourself. Incorrect jacking of a loaded, occupied-height unit is genuinely dangerous.
Static caravans built to BS 3632 (residential specification) are designed to last well beyond 20 years with proper maintenance. Keeping the unit level is one of the single most cost-effective things you can do to protect that lifespan. See How Long Does a Static Caravan Last? for more on protecting your investment.
When Professional Re-Levelling Is Needed
Some situations call for a full professional re-level rather than a DIY check:
- After any transport move, whether a short resiting on the same park or a long-distance move across the UK.
- After significant ground subsidence or a very hard winter with severe frost.
- When taking on a second-hand unit that has been sited by an unknown party – it pays to verify the supports are correct. See the Buying a Second-Hand Static Caravan: Checklist & Delivery guide for what to look for.
- When a park closure or eviction means urgent resiting on a new pitch – in that situation the ground preparation at the new site may be less controlled. See Moving Your Static Caravan After a Site Closure or Eviction.
- When visible symptoms (sticking doors, rocking, drainage problems) suggest the unit has shifted.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I level a static caravan myself?
For minor seasonal re-checks using a spirit level, yes – and it is sensible to monitor level regularly. But actually jacking and re-packing the supports of a loaded static is specialist work. The unit weighs several tonnes and must be jacked at precise chassis points. If you get this wrong you risk bending the chassis, dropping the unit, or invalidating any siting warranty. For any significant re-levelling, use a professional siting team.
How level does a static caravan actually need to be?
The target is as close to perfectly level as possible in both planes. In practice, a slight tolerance of a degree or so is generally acceptable for comfort and drainage. The fridge is the most sensitive appliance – absorption-style fridges typically require level to within a few degrees to operate correctly. The tighter the level, the longer the unit’s seals, doors and frame will last.
Where is the best place to put a spirit level on a static caravan?
Place it on a flat internal surface directly above or as close as possible to the main axle – typically a kitchen worktop or the floor panel in the centre of the unit. This gives the most accurate reading of chassis level. Checking only at one end of the van can miss longitudinal tilt.
What are axle stands and why do statics need them?
Heavy-duty axle stands are steel supports placed beneath the main chassis rails to carry the permanent load of the unit. Static caravans are not designed to sit on their wheels indefinitely – tyres go flat and degrade, and the axle alone is not the right permanent support structure. Specialist static caravan axle stands distribute the load correctly, resist lateral movement and are adjustable so fine level can be set and held. Corner steadies are additional stabilisers but are not load-bearing structures.
Does levelling cost extra on top of transport?
Yes. Transport and siting are typically priced as separate line items. Transport starts from £950 for most jobs with Static Caravan Movers. De-siting and re-siting (including levelling) typically costs £300 – £1,200 for a standard single unit, rising to £4,000 – £5,000 for twin-unit or specialist homes. You will receive a combined quotation covering both elements before you commit.
Who arranges the utilities when a static is resited?
You do – and it’s important to arrange this before the siting team arrives, not after. Gas must be disconnected and reconnected by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Electrical work must be signed off by a qualified electrician. Some parks require their own approved contractors to do this work, so check with your park operator early. Static Caravan Movers handles the mechanical siting (jacking, levelling, supporting, rejoining twin units) but does not carry out certified utility connections and is not liable for them.
What if the ground on my new pitch is soft or uneven?
Soft or unprepared ground is one of the most common causes of a static shifting out of level after siting. The solution is ground preparation – at minimum a compacted hardcore sub-base, ideally concrete strips at the support positions – carried out before the siting day. If you’re siting on private land rather than an established park, this is particularly important to plan ahead. See Can You Move a Static Caravan Onto Private Land? Rules & Planning for the broader picture.