Every autumn, thousands of holiday-park owners across the UK face the same nagging question: have I done enough to protect my caravan through the cold months? A burst pipe, a cracked water tank or a damp interior discovered in March can cost far more to put right than a couple of hours of careful preparation in October. This guide walks you through every step of winterising a static caravan – from draining the water system to securing the exterior – so you can close up for the season with confidence.
Why Winterising Matters
Holiday parks in the UK typically close between November and March. Even residential parks on the year-round BS 3632 standard can see pitches left empty for extended periods. Static caravans sit close to the ground on a chassis – pipes run under the floor where wind chill can be severe – and their construction differs fundamentally from a brick house. That combination makes them genuinely vulnerable to frost, condensation and rodent ingress in a way that is worth taking seriously.
The good news is that the process is methodical rather than complicated. Work through the sections below in order and you will cover every area that matters.
Before You Start: What You’ll Need
- Caravan-grade non-toxic antifreeze (clearly labelled for potable-water systems)
- Pipe lagging foam – pre-slit tubes are the easiest to fit around existing pipework
- A bucket or bowl and a few old towels
- A moisture trap or small dehumidifier
- Silicone or caravan-grade sealant for any visible gaps
- A torch – the underside and roof gutters are hard to inspect otherwise
Step 1 – Drain Down the Water System Completely
This is the single most important task. Water left in pipes, tanks or appliances will expand when it freezes, and even a short sharp frost can split pipework or crack a water storage tank. Most parks require drain-down if the unit will be unoccupied for more than 48 hours between 1 November and 31 March – check your site agreement, as failing to comply can affect your insurance cover.
How to drain down a static caravan
- Turn off the mains water supply at the external stopcock (usually located underneath the caravan).
- Open all taps – hot and cold – and leave them open until water stops flowing.
- Flush the toilet repeatedly until the cistern is empty. As it refills for the last time, add a measure of non-toxic antifreeze at the ratio recommended on the bottle (typically 3:1 water to antifreeze).
- Remove the shower head and hose – water trapped inside can freeze and split the fitting.
- Pour a small amount of non-toxic antifreeze down every waste pipe (sink, shower tray, basin) to treat any water sitting in the S-bends.
- Check the washing machine trap and dishwasher sump if fitted, and run a short empty cycle to clear standing water from the pump.
- Switch off the water heater and immersion at the consumer unit once the system is drained.
A note on utility disconnection: gas and electrical disconnection must be carried out by a suitably qualified engineer – a Gas Safe registered engineer for gas, and a Part P or equivalent qualified electrician for electrics. Some parks insist that only their own contractors may isolate services. Arrange this with your park operator before you close up. Static Caravan Movers does not carry out certified gas or electrical work, and neither should you unless you hold the relevant qualification.
Step 2 – Lag Exposed Pipes and Protect External Fittings
Once the system is drained, insulating the pipes reduces the risk of any residual moisture freezing and provides longer-term protection in future winters. Pay particular attention to the underside of the caravan, where pipes are exposed to moving cold air. Foam tube lagging is inexpensive, widely available from DIY stores and straightforward to fit – simply cut along the pre-slit seam and press it over the pipe.
- Wrap all visible supply pipes under the caravan, especially any that run close to the skirting vents.
- Insulate the external stopcock and any outside tap.
- Check that the skirting panels are intact and refit any that have come loose – gaps allow cold air to circulate freely under the unit.
- Inspect where pipes enter the chassis from below and seal any gaps with expanding foam or caravan sealant.
If you are planning to move the caravan before or after the season, our guide on how to prepare a static caravan for transport covers additional steps relevant to moving day.
Step 3 – Tackle Damp, Ventilation and Condensation
Condensation is the hidden enemy of a closed-up caravan. A sealed, unventilated unit with even a small amount of residual moisture can develop mould within weeks. At the same time, leaving windows cracked invites wind-driven rain and pests.
- Leave all internal doors open so air can circulate freely between rooms.
- Place moisture traps (silica gel or proprietary caravan dehumidifier crystals) in every room, the bathroom and any storage lockers.
- Leave wardrobe and cupboard doors ajar.
- Do not seal the roof vents – they are there to allow air movement and prevent the build-up of stale, damp air.
- If your park allows mains power over winter, a low-wattage plug-in dehumidifier running on a timer is highly effective.
- Strip the beds and store bedding and soft furnishings either at home or in sealed bags inside the caravan – fabric holds moisture and is the first place mould appears.
Step 4 – Exterior Checks: Roof, Seals and Gutters
Winter storms and standing water do more damage to a static caravan than frost alone. A blocked gutter can cause water to pool against the roof edge; a cracked window seal will allow rainwater to track into the wall cavity.
- Clear leaves and debris from gutters and downpipes.
- Inspect every window and door seal and apply fresh caravan-grade sealant anywhere the rubber has shrunk or cracked.
- Check roof seams and any skylights for signs of lifting or deterioration and reseal if necessary.
- Lubricate all door and window locks and hinges with a light oil or silicone spray – rubber seals can stick and tear in freezing temperatures.
- Look for any gaps around cable entries or TV aerial fittings and seal them to deter mice and other small rodents.
While you’re outside, this is a good moment to think about how long your static caravan is likely to last – the age of the unit affects both the level of maintenance it needs and what options are open to you if you decide to move it in the future.
Step 5 – Gas, Electrics and Appliances
As noted above, only a Gas Safe registered engineer should disconnect gas appliances or isolate the gas supply; only a qualified electrician should work on fixed wiring. Once they have done so, there are several practical steps you can take yourself.
- Turn off the gas at the bottle or external meter valve after the engineer has visited.
- Switch off all individual circuit breakers at the consumer unit as well as the main switch.
- Unplug every appliance, including the fridge – leave the fridge and freezer doors propped open to prevent mould.
- Remove the batteries from smoke alarms, CO detectors and any remote controls (batteries can leak over a long winter).
- If you use a gas fire for occasional winter visits, have it serviced annually by a Gas Safe engineer before you next use it.
Quick Reference: Winterising Checklist at a Glance
| Area | Task | Who arranges it |
|---|---|---|
| Water system | Drain all pipes, tanks, appliances; add antifreeze to traps and cistern | Owner (DIY) |
| Gas supply | Isolate and disconnect – must be Gas Safe registered engineer | Owner arranges qualified engineer / park contractor |
| Electrics | Isolate at consumer unit; disconnect appliances | Owner arranges qualified electrician / park contractor for fixed wiring |
| Pipe insulation | Lag exposed underfloor pipes; seal entry points | Owner (DIY) |
| Skirting | Repair or refit loose panels to keep cold air out | Owner (DIY or arranged separately) |
| Interior | Open all doors; place moisture traps; store soft furnishings | Owner (DIY) |
| Exterior | Clear gutters; reseal windows, roof seams and cable entries | Owner (DIY) |
| Appliances | Unplug everything; prop fridge open; remove batteries | Owner (DIY) |
If You’re Planning to Move the Caravan This Season
Autumn and early spring are popular times to move a static caravan – end-of-season and start-of-season moves avoid the busiest summer window and can sometimes mean shorter lead times. If you are thinking about relocating your unit, reading our guide to end-of-season static caravan moves is a sensible first step.
Bear in mind that a static caravan cannot be towed. It must be carried on a specialist low-loader as an abnormal load – something we cover in detail in how static caravans are transported. Transport starts from £950 for most moves, with the cost depending on distance, caravan dimensions and any permit requirements for wider units. Our team handles all ESDAL notifications, route planning and escort arrangements on your behalf.
For a move, your utility disconnection will need to be formally arranged and signed off before we arrive – the same qualified-engineer requirement applies, and some parks will only allow their own contractors to carry out the work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to drain down my static caravan every winter?
If your caravan will be left unoccupied for more than 48 consecutive hours during the colder months – typically November to March – then yes. Most park site agreements require it, and insurers commonly make drain-down a condition of winter cover. Even on a residential park where you use the caravan year-round, it is worth draining down during any planned absence of more than a couple of days in freezing weather.
What antifreeze should I use in a static caravan?
Use a non-toxic, potable-water-safe antifreeze clearly labelled for use in caravans or plumbing systems. Standard automotive antifreeze is toxic and must never be used where it could come into contact with drinking-water pipework or the toilet system. Follow the dilution ratio on the packaging – typically 3 parts water to 1 part antifreeze for moderate UK winters.
Should I leave the heating on in a static caravan over winter?
If your park keeps the electric supply connected and you have a reliable electric heater with a thermostat, running it at a low background setting (around 8–10°C) can help prevent frost damage and reduce condensation. Gas central heating should not be left running unattended in an unoccupied caravan. If you leave heating on, check your insurance policy – some require that the unit is inspected at regular intervals during winter.
Who is responsible for disconnecting gas and electricity before a move or winter closure?
The owner is responsible for arranging it, but the actual work must be carried out by a suitably qualified professional – a Gas Safe registered engineer for gas, and a qualified electrician for fixed electrical connections. Some parks stipulate that only their own maintenance team may disconnect services. Static Caravan Movers does not undertake certified utility work and is not liable for it; we require that gas and electricity are safely isolated before we begin any transport or siting work.
Can I winterise a static caravan that is about to be moved?
Yes, and you should. Draining the water system before transport is required regardless of the season – water adds weight and, if the caravan is tilted on the low-loader, can cause localised water damage to ceilings and walls. Our transport preparation checklist covers everything you need to do before the lorry arrives, including removing loose items, securing furniture and arranging for qualified engineers to disconnect services.
What are the most common winter damage issues in static caravans?
Burst or split pipes from freezing are the most frequent – and most expensive – problem. Close behind are cracked water tanks, mould from condensation, and damaged window or door seals allowing rainwater ingress into wall cavities. Rodent entry through unsecured skirting vents or cable-entry gaps is also more common in winter, when animals seek warmth. All of these are preventable with the steps outlined above.
Does my park’s age limit affect the value of winterising properly?
Directly, yes. Many holiday parks impose age limits of 10–20 years on caravans; some residential parks have their own rules. A well-maintained caravan that has been properly winterised each year will be in significantly better condition when it reaches the park’s age limit than one that has suffered frost damage, condensation mould or water ingress. That matters whether you plan to sell it, move it to a different park, or negotiate a licence extension. Learn more about how long a static caravan lasts and what affects its lifespan.
My pitch fees are rising – is winter a good time to consider moving?
End-of-season is actually one of the better windows to plan a move. The park is less busy, access for the low-loader is often easier, and you have time to arrange everything without the pressure of an upcoming holiday. Read our guide on what to do when pitch fees are rising for a practical look at when moving makes financial sense.